Beauty to Grow on Three Pillars 2015–2025

Posted: December 16, 2014

Wellness and technological beauty will be the next big skin care trends, says Diagonal Reports. The beauty market has, until recently, been almost exclusively about the cosmetic but will now grow on the three pillars of wellness, technology and cosmetic beauty for the foreseeable future. Although that latter originated from outside the cosmetic segment, they have been the growth drivers of the skin care market.

Women worldwide are falling out of love with, and moving away from, the cosmetic beauty model. They are willing to experiment with alternatives that they believe can deliver dramatic improvements to their skin condition and appearance. This change happened under the radar, as both wellness and technological beauty were popularized by spas tapping into a rich seam of consumer demand and market opportunities.

Wellness has been competing for beauty spending for many years. It was early 2000 when Diagonal Reports and others first noted that salon professionals in the U.S., Europe and China were providing wellness or "beauty from within" services. Beauty spas were the platform that rolled out innovative treatments based on reducing stress or increasing energy to deliver a younger looking skin. Since then, changes in buyer behavior created a sector worth billions.

More recently, and at the other end of the spectrum, it is beauty technology transforming the inherited (cosmetic) beauty culture. Here, devices and tools (cleansing brush, IPL, laser, etc.) are being incorporated into daily skin care regimes because they deliver effective and efficient results. The era of the superfacial has arrived. But this trend had been noted as early as 2006, when Diagonal Reports identified that devices were being added to spa treatment protocols because of dissatisfaction with traditional products. Demand for new solutions was so widespread.

Additionally, changes in spending will transform beauty companies' approach to market because skin care can account for up to 50% of all beauty product sales in some key markets. Wellness and technological beauty are already impacting on what many people want from their products, making even the most conservative of beauty consumers more open than ever to new skin care technologies and formulations. Diagonal Reports' research shows that consumers in mature markets are adopting new products while those in developing markets are taking their own traditions with them.

Scientific skin care has been both the engine and beneficiary of this market change. It is displacing cosmetic products traditionally used for facial care (especially cleansing and moisturizing). Scientific skin care developed under the radar, and so remains somewhat misunderstood. For starters this is really an umbrella category that melds cosmetic, medical and natural skin care. In consequence, the value of scientific skin care sales has been seriously underestimated because so many small players account for, in aggregate, a significant market share.

Related Topics: Skin Care (Segments)

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AISI 6150 – Heat Treating by Alloy – Bladesmith’s Forum Board


United States: AISI 6150, AMS 6450, AMS 7301, ASTM A322 (6150), ASTM A519 (6150), ASTM A829, SAE J1397 (6150) , SAE J412 (6150), AMS 6448, AMS 6455, ASTM A29 (6150), ASTM A331 (6150), ASTM A752 (6150), MIL. S-8503, SAE J404 (6150), UNSG 61500

International: DIN 50CrV4, EN 50CrV4,


Crucible: Carbon 0.50, Manganese 0.80, Silicon 0.30, Chromium 1.00, Vanadium 0.15

Metal Ravne: Carbon 0.51, Manganese 0.90, Silicon max. 0.40, Chromium 1.09, Vanadium 0.18,

Metal Suppliers Online: Carbon 0.48-0.53, Manganese 0.7-0.9, Silicon 0.15-0.35, Chromium 0.8-0.9, Vanadium 0.15 min.

Principle Design Features

6150 is a fine grained, highly abrasion resistant carbon-chromium alloy steel. Very good shock resistance and toughness are also key properties of this alloy in the heat treated condition.

Forging Range

Forge between 2200 and 1600 degrees Fahrenheit. Note that welding temperature is around 2300 degrees Fahrenheit. You pretty much want to be forging this stuff at a welding heat and be sure to stop hitting it before it gets too cold. The first heat you take will require a definite soak time, from 10-30 minutes, before you start forging.


1360-1380 degrees Fahrenheit


Cycle 1 - Make it good and hot, around 2200 degrees Fahrenheit, soak 10-30 minutes, air cool.

Cycle 2 - Get it to 1600 degrees Fahrenheit, soak 10-30 minutes, air cool.

Cycle 3 - Heat to 1550 degrees Fahrenheit, soak10-30 minutes, air cool.


Preheat to 1200-1250 degrees Fahrenheit and equalize.

Heat to 1500-1650 degrees Fahrenheit, soak 10-30 minutes.


Oil quench to hand warm (150 degrees Fahrenheit). Temper Immediately.


2 hours minimum soak at temperature. Cross sections thicker than 2 inches require 1 hour per inch of thickness, round any fractions up. Knives from 6150 will get tempered cooler than you are used to, Here is a clue from an old post (Tempering 6150) "I heat treated a forged blade made of 6150, quenched it in oil and tempered twice at 375 for an hour each time. It Rc tested at 58."

via AISI 6150 - Heat Treating by Alloy - Bladesmith's Forum Board.

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Datamonitor Consumer Explores Compressed Deodorants, Category Innovation

Posted: December 8, 2014

Often being eclipsed by seemingly more glamorous categories such as hair care and skin care, the launch of game-changing compressed deodorants has resulted in new attention being drawn to the deodorants space, offers Datamonitor Consumer. Innovation is now going beyond functional hygiene and is being explored in other ways, such as through sustainability, the blurring of category lines and a focus on male-targeted solutions.

With less than a quarter of consumers agreeing that the personal care industry is making a strong effort in trying to package products more responsibly in order to reduce waste, the trend toward compressed deodorants is successfully tapping into growing demand for sustainable personal care solutions.

As today’s consumers search for greener products, environmentally friendly packaging represents an important way by which brands can expand upon these credentials. Compact deodorants are one such way in which brands have responded to this trend, with Unilever leading the way. With two in five global consumers agreeing that if a beauty product has too much packaging, they will consider buying an alternative product, and this is creating opportunities for brands to tap into these concerns with more effective and meaningful packaging solutions that can assist in enhancing their eco-friendly and sustainable credentials, as seen with Unilever’s approach.

Apart from sustainability credentials, compressed deodorants also tap into the on-the-go behavior of today’s time-scarce consumer. Smaller packaging solutions that contain the same amount of fragrance as a full-sized product create a much more portable deodorant solution, appealing to consumers who are constantly on the move and need easy-to-carry products in order to facilitate application outside of the home. Therefore, with compact deodorants having succeeded in offering effective solutions for increasingly eco-conscious consumers while also delivering added convenience through more portable, easy-to-carry packaging, it is likely that this trend will continue to gain traction and greater innovation engagement going forward through interest from a wide range of consumers.

Across the wider deodorants space, consumers are now looking beyond the hygiene aspect of deodorant products, and one third of global consumers agree that sensory benefits are influential in their product choices within the personal hygiene space. The influence that the fragrance category has on the deodorants space is growing, catering to demand for more complex and exciting scents to use on the skin that have traditionally been confined to perfumes.

This is also representative of the blurring of category lines being seen across the personal care space. Innovation examples of this trend include Pure Lightness Perfumed Deo by Adidas for Women, recently launched in Malaysia. This deodorant is formulated with “crispy luminous fruits and vibrant watery” top notes, “delicate green floralcy” heart notes, and base notes of “tender fruits and sweet musk.”

Multifunctional continues to be an important trend within this space, particularly in relation to male-targeted innovation. This can be attributed to the fact that, globally, significantly fewer men enjoy spending time on a health and beauty regime compared to their female counterparts. Therefore, the need for an accelerated personal hygiene regime is of paramount importance in creating opportunities for effective multifunctional deodorant solutions.

Additionally, with male consumers now looking for more complex solutions as it becomes increasingly acceptable to have a targeted and structured personal care routine (particularly outside of Asia), this is creating opportunities for the expansion of benefits included in multifunctional formulations. An example of this approach includes Cool Dry 48h by Adidas, which features 48-hour protection and claims to offer six benefits in one, including anti-wetness and antibacterial properties, avoiding yellow stains, and providing extra freshness.

With the growing dynamism being seen within deodorants, brands will need to ensure that they can deliver value that goes beyond simply hygiene in order to cater to the growing complexity of consumer needs within this space while also capitalizing on the expansion of wider personal care trends into this category.

Related Topics: Bath Body (Segments)

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PCA SKIN Names Larrain CEO

Posted: December 9, 2014

PCA Skin, a professional skin health care brand available in more than 7,000 medical and aesthetic practices globally, announced Michael Larrain as chief executive officer, effective Jan. 5, 2015.

Larrain joins PCA Skin after more than two decades as a leader with top beauty, health and wellness brands, including L’Oréal, SkinCeuticals and Dermalogica. Larrain’s background in developing and expanding national brands, according to the company, is perfectly suited to augment PCA Skin’s deep track record of growth and to drive the company’s next phase of expansion.

“Michael is a successful business leader who has transformed cosmetic companies into global beauty and health brands," said Richard Linder, chairman, PCA Skin. "He has the experience, passion and demonstrated ability to take PCA Skin to the next level,. As we head into PCA Skin’s next chapter, there are many exciting developments on the horizon. Larrain is the ideal leader to drive these plans and continue the company’s growth and vision for many years to come.”

Larrain joins PCA Skin from L’Oréal, where he served as president of the active cosmetics division, as well as general manager and vice president of sales for SkinCeuticals. While at L’Oréal, Larrain successfully turned three brands into lucrative entities, and led a skin care brand through a complete turnaround in just 18 months.

"I'm excited to join the all-star team at PCA Skin and be part of aggressively growing this extraordinary business," said Larrain. "The brand has established itself as a trusted leader in the skin health space, and I look forward to continuing the company’s success as we kick off the new year."

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Sunscreen Innovation Act Becomes a Law

Posted: December 8, 2014

It's official—the Sunscreen Innovation Act has become a law. On Nov. 29, 2014, President Barack Obama signed the bipartisan Sunscreen Innovation Act into law, paving the way for more sunscreen actives on the U.S. sun care market.

As previously mentioned, this law requires the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to clear the backlog of sunscreen filters. The last UV filter approved by the FDA was in 1990. There has been eight TEA applications for UV filters awaiting FDA approval since 2002.

The new law will force the FDA to make decisions on the filters within a reasonable time frame, some within six months. New ingredients added since the law is enacted must be responded to within a year.

With the approval of these ingredients, U.S. sun care manufacturers will have more options when formulating, potentially leading to better sun protection.

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Robust, Earthy Red Pantone’s 2015 Color of the Year

Posted: December 8, 2014


Source: Pantone LLC

Pantone, an X-Rite company, announced PANTONE 18-1438 Marsala, a naturally robust and earthy wine red, as the 2015 color of the year.

"Much like the fortified wine that gives Marsala its name, this tasteful hue embodies the satisfying richness of a fulfilling meal, while its grounding red-brown roots emanate a sophisticated, natural earthiness," said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. "This hearty, yet stylish tone is universally appealing and translates easily to fashion, beauty, industrial design, home furnishings and interiors."

Marsala for Beauty

A versatile color for beauty, Marsala is an appealing and sophisticated shade that's flattering against many skin tones, offers Pantone. Marsala pairs with monochromatic mixes of peachy pinks, and sparkles against antiqued gold metallics, offering an assortment of lipstick and blush options.

Marsala illuminates a range of smoky-neutral color combinations, making it a captivating eye shadow color that can be worn from morning until night. Add an overlay of bronze for a dramatic look that suits any eye color, or use Marsala as a go-to finishing touch on nails.

Marsala for Packaging

As a striking contrasting color, Marsala is well suited for use in graphic design and packaging. Eye-catching but not overwhelming or bright, consumers are immediately drawn to the hue, making it an alluring shade at point-of-purchase. Marsala will be a natural fit for both high- and low-tech materials, including on-shelf periodicals as well as printed assets.

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Brazilian Consumers Seek Body Creams With the ‘Right’ Story

Posted: December 3, 2014

According to market data firm Canadean's "Consumer and Market Insights: Skincare Market in Brazil" report (published December 2014), the desire for beautiful bodies is one of the main drivers of the skin care market in Brazil. However, as consumers are not able to evaluate the effectiveness of a product straight away, brand owners need to make a bigger effort to appeal to them.


According to a Canadean report, the desire to enhance appearance influences over a quarter of skin care consumption in Brazil. In body care, which takes a 70.6% share of the Brazilian skin care market, this desire is the strongest, influencing 28.8% of its consumption. This demonstrates that Brazilians consider healthy and youthful body skin as vital for attractiveness.

“Demand for body creams and lotions with skin-enhancing claims (such as vitalizing, firming, counteracting cellulites and stretch marks) is growing," says Veronika Zhupanova, analyst at Canadean. "The same goes for body care with more emotive claims such as promises of smooth, shiny and silky skin."

Canadean’s research shows that Brazilians evaluate the effectiveness of a product with their senses. “[Brand owners] have to remember that consumers can not evaluate the effectiveness of a skin care product straight away," Zhupanova says. "They will, therefore, check out the attributes that are available to them, such as stylish packaging, pleasant tactile and visual sensations, scent, absorption speed, and feel on the skin. This is an initial hurdle where skin care producers will need to make an effort to attract consumers in Brazil.”

Direct sales is a popular sales channel for skin care products in Brazil. As consumers do not always have access to the product before they make a purchase, it is crucial that brand owners provide a full description of the item in the sales catalogue. In addition to that, a story around skin care needs to be created, explaining what served as an inspiration for the product and why. According to Zhupanova, “this will create an emotional connection with consumers while explaining how the product works. For example, the acai berry, used by Brazil’s indigenous Amazonian population, is rich in antioxidants and associated with a number of benefits, including anti-aging.”

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Posted: December 3, 2014

Clavis Insight, a provider of online retail store analytics for consumer packaged goods brands, conducted a pre-holiday analysis of the online personal care gift pack and fragrance categories. The Clavis Insight Index ( CI²) shows Burt’s Bees and Guess fragrances are best positioned to win their respective categories in the online channel, based on their online store presence and performance in early November 2014.

Clavis Insight analyzed the online store representation of leading personal care and fragrance brands on six online retailers, based on key performance indicators (KPIs)* critical to driving online purchasing. The KPIs include product availability, image presence, content integrity and overall search rank. These metrics form the basis of the Clavis Insight Index (CI²), a proprietary benchmark of online retail store presence and performance for brands.

The leading brands in both categories had consistently strong performance on product availability, content integrity and overall search rank. In the Personal Care Gift Pack category, Burt’s Bees outperformed its rivals in terms of search to take first place in the CI² ranking. Likewise, Guess scored well in search ranking to better its rivals in the Fragrance category.

“Ensuring that the right products are available for sale, supporting product content is maximized and that search returns against key category terms are optimized are all critical to winning in the fast growing online channel.” said Supriya Chaudhury, CMO, Clavis Insight.

To produce the Clavis Insight Index, product level performance is calculated against the most critical KPIs and aggregated by brand. Results are benchmarked against the average score for the category to produce the Clavis Insight Index score. Brands indexing greater than 100 outperform the category average, while those that score less than 100 underperform relative to category.

Study Scope

For the purpose of this study Clavis Insight analyzed beauty departments across six leading U.S. online retailers: Amazon, Walmart, Target, Drugstore, CVS, and Walgreens. The analysis involved 92 brands and more than 1,000 SKUs in the Personal Care Gift Packs category and 130 brands and more than 5,500 products in the Fragrance category.

The results show the top 20 in each category are clustered tightly together, reflecting the highly competitive and fragmented nature of both categories. In the Personal Care Gift Packs category, premium and niche brands such as Burt’s Bee’s, Clinique, Philosophy and Aveeno edged ahead of the pack. For Fragrances, mainstream brands stood out, with Guess ranked number one (followed closely by Brut, Joop and Katy Perry).

The analysis was conducted with data collected during the first week of November 2014 to assess who was ahead in time for the holidays. Clavis Insight will continue to monitor online store presence and performance for these categories through the holiday period to track any changes that take place in brand rankings.

“The dynamic changes that can and do occur on the online shelf reiterate the importance of continuous monitoring, measurement and correction,” concluded Chaudhury.

The full study is available from Clavis Insight.

*KPI Definition
The Clavis Insight Index ( CI²) is a proprietary benchmark of online retail store presence and performance for brands. The index is calculated from key performance indicators (KPIs) that are critical drivers in the online path-to-purchase, including:

  • AVAILABILITY: Is the product in-stock and available for sale?
  • IMAGE PRESENCE: Does the online product listing include a key brand image?
  • CONTENT INTEGRITY: Is key product information present and correct on product landing pages?
  • SEARCH RANK: Can shoppers find your products based on category keywords?

Related Topics: Online/TV

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Confidence of Affluent Consumers Dips

Posted: December 1, 2014

In Unity Marketing's latest survey of affluent consumer confidence, the Luxury Consumption Index (LCI) took a 12.3 point dive to 46.4 points*—its lowest level since Q4 2008–Q1 2009. With a drop in affluents' mood, they are not likely to spend extravagantly during the 2014 holiday season.

Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing and lead researcher in the Affluent Consumer Tracking Study, (ACTS) explains, "All five key questions that go into the calculation of the LCI tanked in the latest survey. This sets up a bleak Christmas shopping season, since the affluent represent only 20% of U.S. households (24.5 million out of total 122.5 million), but account for more than 40% of all consumer spending."

Unity Marketing's ACTS survey measured affluent consumer confidence in the fourth quarter, as well as their shopping behavior across 24 different types of shopping environments, including:

  • General merchandise stores such as Macy's, JC Penney's, Target, Costco, Saks 5th Avenue, Bloomingdales;
  • Luxury boutiques such as Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton, Coach, Prada, Chanel;
  • Fashion Clothing stores such as Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, JCrew, Anthropologie;
  • Jewelry stores;
  • Home stores such as Bed Bath Beyond, Restoration Hardware, Crate Barrel, IKEA, Ethan Allen;
  • Beauty stores such as Art of Shaving, Sephora, Ulta;
  • Other specialty stores (art galleries, book stores, craft stores, etc.);
  • Online and direct-to-consumer retailers.

"In keeping with affluents' mood, their spending as measured in the Shopper Track survey declined by 10% this quarter," said Danziger. "While some categories posted growth in spend, particularly luxury travel and investment in major household appliances, many other categories of spending were off. The affluent's lack of confidence in the overall direction of the country is a critical factor in the LCI."

Tom Bodenberg, Unity Marketing's economist, explained affluent consumers' sentiment that went into the LCI calculations, "Affluent consumers are sitting on the sidelines instead of getting in on the action." Bodenberg notes that despite recent gains in the residential real-estate marketplace and stabilization in workforce participation, the affluent still feel uncertainty on the economic front.

*The survey was conducted from October 9-15, 2014 among n=1,330 affluents, starting with HHI $100,000 and above. The demographics of the survey sample was average income of the survey sample was $259,000 and average age 47.9 years.

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Arden Signs Supermodel Karlina Caune as Brand Ambassador

Posted: December 2, 2014

Elizabeth Arden announced that it has signed an exclusive agreement with supermodel Karlina Caune, who will be the new global face of the Elizabeth Arden brand. Cuane will appear in the brand's advertising campaigns, marketing programs and public relations events, and will also be an active participant in Arden's digital and social media platforms.

"The modern Elizabeth Arden woman is a passionate, multi-cultural individual who leads an active professional lifestyle," says Scott Beattie, chairman, president and CEO, Elizabeth Arden, Inc. "In Karlina Caune, we have found a beautiful and intelligent young woman who embodies the ideals of the Arden brand."

Based in New York, the Latvian born model is one of the most coveted faces in beauty and fashion. Caune has graced the pages of fashion magazines globally, and walked the runway for the world's top fashion brands.

"I am honored to join this iconic brand. Not only have I always loved the products, but Elizabeth Arden as well," says Caune. "She was a woman ahead of her time and her philosophy about embracing women's natural beauty is inspiring to me. I'm excited to join this community that supports strong, confident women."

Caune will appear in Elizabeth Arden advertising campaigns beginning in spring/summer 2015.

Related Topics: Marketing

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